“Yakimo”, ikijumba cyokeje, abacuruzi usanga bagenda bakiririmba barimo kubicuruza mu murwa mukuru Tokyo, baba bagira bati: “oishii, oishii” (kiraryoshye, kiraryoshye).
Bagenda babicuruza mu modoka ntoya zica mu mihana y’abantu zifite indangururamajwi zibwira abantu ko babazaniye ‘Yakimo’ ziryoshye, abantu bakava mu nzu zabo bakaza kugura.
Mu karere kacu, ndetse by’umwuhariko mu Burundi no mu Rwanda, ikijumba cyabaye indyo ya rubanda mu gihe kirekire gishize, nubwo ubu bigenda bihinduka kubera imbaraga leta zishyira mu bindi biribwa nk’ibigori n’umuceri.
Ubuyapani buzwiho indyo ya sushi, sashimi (ibiribwa byombi by’ibiva mu nyanja) hamwe n’amakaroni, ikijumba cyokeje ntabwo kigarukwaho cyane nyamara kiri mu biribwa bigikunzwe mu Buyapani.
Mu by’ukuri iki kinyamafufu, mu Rwanda bavugaga ko kiri mu bihingwa’ngandurarugo’, kiri mu biryo bifite amateka maremare mu Buyapani, aho cyageze mu myaka ya 1600 kigatangira gukundwa.
Aiko Tanaka, umushakashatsi mu by’ibiribwa muri Osaka Food Studies College, ati: “Urebye ni umwihariko kumva bariya bacuruzi babitembereza bagenda baririmba”.
Kōki Ono, umaze imyaka ibiri acuruza ibijumba byokeje abitembereza, avuga ko impamvu nini izi ndirimbo zo gusingiza ibijumba barimo kugurisha zigenda zigabanuka ari uko abantu binubira urusaku rw’abacuruzi.
Ibi si ko byari bimeze mu myaka yashize nk’uko Asuri Kamatani ukuriye ikinyamakuru cyandika ku bijumba kitwa Himitsu na Yakiimo (Ibanga ry’ikijumba cyokeje) abivuga.
Kugeza mu 1905 i Tokyo honyine hari ahantu 1,300 hacururizwa ‘Yakimo’, nk’uko Eric Rath abivuga.
Mu gihe ibijumba byari byaramamaye muri rubanda rudakize cyane icyo gihe, itegeko ry’ubucuruzi ku biribwa mu gihe cy’intambara mu 1942 ryatumye ubucuruzi bwa ‘Yakimo’ bwinshi bufunga.
Ariko n’ubundi, byakomeje kuba ibiryo by’ibanze mu ntambara ya kabiri y’isi mu gihe ibindi bihingwa nk’ingabo byari byararumbye.
Rath ati: “Ikijumba cyasimbuye ifu y’ingano, kuva mu 1944 ubutaka bwa leta bwahinzweho ibijumba gusa maze bisimbura umuceri kugeza mu 1945.”
Nyuma y’intambara y’isi, itegeko rya leta ryongeye gufungura ubucuruzi bw’ibijumba maze ababicuruza basubira ku mihanda, ari nabwo batangiye gukoresha imodoka ntoya mu kubitembereza bagurisha.
Aiko Tanaka ati: “Yakimo yagurishwaga nka ‘fast-food’ ku bantu muri rusange kugeza mu myaka ya 1970 ubwo ‘restaurants’ zatangiye gucuruza ibiryo nk’iby’Abanyamerika mu Buyapani.”
Kōki Ono n’ubu aracyabona inyungu muri ubu bucuruzi mu buryo bwerekana ko benshi bagikomeye ku muco wo gukunda ibijumba byokeje bakunda kurya cyane mu gihe cy’imbeho.
Avuga ko ubu agurisha ibijumba byokeje bisaga 100 ku munsi, kandi abaguzi be bari hagati y’imyaka irindwi na 90.
Ono avuga ko ibijumba nk’ibi bikomeje gukundwa atari uko bifite amateka maremare gusa, ahubwo ko binafite intungamubiri zihagije kandi bikagera ku bantu byoroshye.
Inkumi zigira ipfunwe ryo kubigura
Madamu Asuri Kamatani we avuga ko cyane cyane abakobwa bagendana n’ibigezweho bo bagira isoni zo kubigura kuko bifatwa nk’umuderi wa kera.
Ati: “Abakobwa bakunda ibijumba, ariko babifiteho ishusho yo kuba ikintu cya kera, bakibaza ngo ‘ndashaka kubirya, ariko biteye isoni kubigura'”.
Mu gukemura iki kibazo, Kamatani yagendeye ku mvugo izwi nka onkochishin – “kwiga ibishya ugendeye ku kahise” – ashora mu buryo bugezweho bwo gucuruza ibijumba mu modoka nziza y’amabara n’abakozi bakiri bato.
Ati: “Abakozi bose babicuruza bose ni abumvwa cyane [ku mbuga nkoranyambaga], ni abakiri bato bagendana n’ibigezweho, abakobwa n’abahungu bambara neza.”
Kamatani ariko avuga ko n’abagicuruza Yakimo mu buryo bwa kera bagicuruza kandi badateze kuva kuri uwo muco “kuko ari imbonekarimwe” ndetse hari abaguzi babyifuza gutyo byahoze nk’umwihariko.
Nubwo ibigezweho n’ibihe bishya bigenda byugariza ubucuruzi bw’ibijumba byokeje mu Buyapani, Eric Rath avuga ko bigoye ko byagera aho bica uyu muco mu biribwa ugifite abawukunze n’abashaka kuwusigasira.
Ati: “Biragoye gutekereza umujyi [mu Buyapani] utarimo ubucuruzi bwa Yakimo”.
Kuri Tanaka, ibanga riroroshye; ibijumba byokeje mu mwimerere wabyo biraryoha kandi bishobora guhita biribwa bikiva ku makara. Byubaka umubiri kandi ni amahitamo meza ugereranyije n’ibiryo byuzuye amavuta.
Ati: “Yakimo ni, kandi izahora ari, ifunguro rineza umutima rihora ryibutsa ibihe byahise.”
@BBC
